Oahu’s north shore was bombarded by solid swells that lit up outer reefs and Waimea Bay today. Waimea was in prime form with a perfect easterly wind and 15 foot Hawaiian style waves coming through. Kurt Rist who paddled out mid morning said, “I got my best Waimea wave today.
It bowled right toward me, four hard strokes and I was in. I held a real high line and stayed right in the pocket. No one dropped in.” I took my friends up to the Pu’u O Mahuka heiau above Waimea so they could see another perspective. We snapped a few photos and watched a few waves break at outside Log Cabins.
The outer reefs were holding bigger surf. Haleiwa had a gapping brown monster of a wave that barreled top to bottom for over one hundred yards. One team was on it and they had me saying more ridiculous comments. The waves were breaking nearly a mile out and the teams were barely recognizable.
Later in the day, the tow teams were still going at it doing laps in my backyard, catching wave after wave. Friends and I climbed a hill near the Kahuku motocross track to get a bird’s eye view. (Speaking of birds, I wonder if the blue footed boobies change their flying style in huge surf?) The sets stacked the horizon and I was left in awe every few minutes gawking, “Look at that one! There are eight waves in the set! Oh they missed that one. Awe, the next one’s even bigger.”
It sucks to be on the sidelines during a giant swell due to an injury, but it’s motivation to get things straight, train harder, and be ready for the next one.