The morning started off with a surf check, and what we saw is the reason surfers think twice about paddling this outer reef. A set stacked across the horizon and broke 200 yards out past the lineup, steamrolling through.
“Did you see that?” was one tentative response and another was “Let’s get out there.” My gut instinct was to get out there. The swell was on the decline from yesterdays reading 10ft @ 18 seconds, the wind was light, and judging by that set, there was still a chance to catch a bomb.
The first 20 minutes was filled with a long lull and then things slowly got going. Hawaiian charger Keali’i Mamala was putting his 12 ft SUP to work and catching anything that came through. He managed to sneak into a barrel on the corner. Natty Graham from NYsea Productions captured the following footage from a jet ski in the channel.
Will and Cliff Skudin from team NYsea were having a good exchange and enjoying the glassy morning conditions.
The wind picked up mid morning and so did the bombs. Trevor Carlson got a few out the back as well as on the head and was stoked to be wearing a tow vest.
Nathan Fletcher came out right as the swell began to pulse again and he found this gem.
Jeremy Flores caught one of the biggest waves of the day and went right, showing his big wave positioning knowledge, and why he has a spot in The Eddie.
Jamile Qureshi, shaping and riding his own boards, pulled off this sick drop.
I managed to find a rhythm and got into some nice ones. The wave of my session was a nice drop followed by a bottom turn, and I saw the wave standing up on the inside. I set my line and pulled in from deep. The view inside the cavern was mental. I soaked it in and then hit the eject button as the exit started to clamp.
Barrels were made, leashes were broke, cleanup sets came through and hold downs were experienced all in a beautiful morning at an Outer Reef on the North Shore of Oahu.