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Lately the south shore has been seeing some small swells in the 2-4 foot range. Note: When we mention wave heights we give them in Hawaiian scale. This is the height of the back of the wave which is usually about 1/2 to 2/3 the height of the face of the wave. Everywhere else in the world people measure the face. For some reason Hawaiians gotta be different, kinda neat if you ask me. Anway, so when someone from Hawaii says he/she surfed a 4 foot wave, think of it more like a 7 to 8 foot wave.

Waikiki

Since this is where we live we spend most of our time surfing Canoes, the break made famous by Duka Kahanamoku. We live four blocks from it and can easily carry a board down after work. Located just behind the duke statue, if you come without a board have no fear, one of several rental outfits on the beach will gladly assist you for a small fee (about $10 per hour and a half). Be mindful of the sunbathers lining the beach, strap on your leash and hit the water.

Kim and I both surf longer boards, 8'6" to 9'6". These boards are much easier to catch the majority of the waves that roll through the waikiki breaks which are pretty gentle. !!Caution!! At times a strong south swell can produce large waves which can be dangerous for inexperienced. Just be careful and obey the signs.

Within the waikiki beach stretch are several breaks. As mentioned we mainly stick to Canoes, you'll notice it's the one with the most people on it. Next to that, on the left looking towards the ocean is Queens. The crowd that surfs here is mostly truely local people, you'll be able to tell this break buy the stong pigeon spoken on the water (or someone yelling at you to stay off their wave). A fun break, I suggest it for those sticking around for a while. Just to the right of Canoes and about 200 yards further out is Pops. This break is for the die hards, if you can handle the paddle all the way out, no one will say much to you except nice wave.

Further down the beach towards diamond head, past the wall where only body boarders are allowed, is a shallow break called publics. This wave is a little steeper and breaks over shallow reef, most of the time you will have to maneuver around coral sticking out of the water. A fun wave once you graduate from 11 foot board at Canoes. Following the beach from Canoes away from diamond head you'll find another local's surfed break called Three's. This break is also a little steeper (meaning the wave face is steeper) and should be ridden once you get comfortable getting up quickly. Locals tend not to wait for beginners to get into the wave.

Magic Island Area

Right behind the Illikai hotel is the Ala Moana boat harbor. There are three breaks here that on small to medium days bring some nice consistent rolling waves. Rock Piles, In-Betweens, and Kaiser Bowls. Mainly a local spot, you can surf here with a long board or shortboard.

Rock Piles, which is the break closest to Magic Island, tends to get a little crowded on any sign of a south swell. I have only been on this break once during a 6-8' south swell. It was a bit large. Kim and I both took out body boards, and she about killed me for making her go along afterwards.

In-Betweens is what I usually surf. There is a really nice long left that dumps you into a channel for an easy paddle back out. The wave is a little steeper but a lot of fun. The best day I had here was on the first summer south swell of 2005. My boss "made" a bunch of us go from work and we stayed for a few hours. There were litterally hundreds of people at the three breaks but there were more than enough waves for everyone

Kaiser Bowls, paddled down, paddled back. This break is another teenage shortboarding boys break. As mentioned they get a bit tense for me and my longboards. The wave is good right or left from what I have seen and if you are out in the evening you might be able to hop on the dinner cruise that floats out from the small marina behind the Hilton Hawaiian Village.

Ala Moana - Kewalos

Being that I work a block from the Kakaako/Kewalos area I tend to surf there at lunch quite often. Mainly I go to a break called Straight Outs at the harbour. It's straight out from the Basin parking lot and the quickest paddle for me during a 1 hour lunch break. People often ask if I worry about it being so close to the channel inlet to the harbour (this is apparhently where sharks tend to hang out). Most of the time there are other people there which gives a strange, probably false, sense of security and don't usually think twice about it. Although there have been over cast days where the thought lingers between sets.

If Straight outs is too crowded I may try my luck next to the channel, but this break is usually filled with a teenage crowd and shortboards. I try my best to steer clear of that crowd. Further down away from the channel towards diamond head are the Ala Moana breaks. A bit of a paddle from the parking lot wall but Tennis Courts is usally worth it.

Several more breaks are scattered all along this stretch up to Magic Island. Try your luck on any of them, chances are you'll find one with no one at all, just don't expect it to stay that way.

Kakaako - Sand Island

Kakaako has Point Panic, a strictly Body Boarding area. I've been told that it got its name Point Panic because when the fishing boats would come into the harbour they would dump their dead fish and chum right outside the channel. Directly where the Point Panic break is. This would cause quite a chill in the water and everyone would race to leave the water. This could still be the case although I haven't been there to witness it.

On the other side of the park is a nice long break which if its breaking be cautious. You may find yourself paddling into the Honolulu Harbour Channel just to get back out. The waves, although not the steepest, come with quite a bit of force on a good south swell. A very deep water break it can be nice for those wanting to avoid bad reef cuts. However, I suggest going with a group of people. I have never felt too safe being stuck between two channels in the middle of deep water with a rocky bottom.

Sand Island is another break that I watch from my office work space, and yet as I write this I haven't been on. A nice longboard break I am told getting to it is a bit tricky. You have to follow Sand Island Access road past all of the industrialness and boat harbours, to Sand Island Rec Area. The waves seem to be pretty consistent on any south swell over 2 feet so get out there and email us on how it is.

Diamond Head

Before venturing up to diamond head there are a few breaks between waikiki and there. First along the way right next to the Natatorium is Chawans, then Castles, then Old Mans. Chawans and Castles usually breaks on a little larger day and can be reefy if you take the ride n too far. I have actually surfed all of these breaks in one day strating at Publics. We began at Publics and followed the breaks towards Diamond Head to avoid the crowds. I don't suggest this because a few of the spots are filled with reef.

Next is Old Mans, a nice longboard wave that I have only been on once with a longboard. It was on that day mentioned which was mostly paddling. I finally reached Old Mans about 15 minutes before sun down but stayed about 20 minutes past sun down because the wave was breaking quite nicely. I have also tried to surf this wave on a shortbaord during a south swell but didn't have much luck. I don't suggest it although there were a few people on fun boards (between a shortboard and longboard) that seem to be having some luck.

Further up the shore is Tonggs. Although everyone thinks this break is all the rage Kim and I have a different take on it. We have probably been there 10 different times with 10 different groups of people all telling us that it was not good on the day we went. Hmmm? Usually quite windy the break begins to wrap around the reef creating what I am told is a nice left. There usually aren't too many people out which makes for a nice day on the water, but the lack of good waves has been discouraging us. We will keep trying and report back when we finally hit that epic day at Tonggs. Until then I am sure we will hear all about how good the day before was

Next is Diamond Head. Kim and I have surfed this many times. Although it can be very windy making it a prime spot of windsurfers, the days and times where the wind is down, Diamond Head has it all. Wrapping around the point are several breaks both outer and inner. The outer breaks, usually quite a bit large than the inners, have locals riding both long and short baords. I have only ventured out on a shortboard and the rights were great to learn on. The inner breaks can be for longboarders or shortboards, and when the outside is too choppy coming inside has its perks. Although it can be a bit reefy, I suggest going at high tide. Also don't listen to everyone telling you its too windy, we have done this more than once and ended up biking past only to find near glassy conditions with perfect sets coming in.

Toes

Be ready for a paddle. From the shore you can't really see anyone out in the water, and the waves look like ankle snappers. However, once you make the 20 minute paddle out (most of the way you could actually walk, I think Kim and I did when we went) you'll notice there are a few people scattered amongst the multitude of breaks. Take your pick, paddle through the remaining surf and take the rides in. The breaks here seem to have shorter rides than most so I would suggest a shortboard to take full advantage of the waves. Also you might want to pack a lunch for the trip back in to shore.

Sandy's

Sandy's beach is the first beach you come to once you make it past Hanauma Bay and down the switch-back road. If your here on vacation or haven't stopped we suggest stopping at the blow hole lookout just to say you did. Its the parking lot you come across when you can first see Sandy's

Sandy's is one of my favorite beaches on the island. Although it can be a little windy, it has 3 breaks that offer 3 different types of waves to ride.

Shore Break is aptly named for the shore break that pounds onto the beach. This is another bodysurfing/bodyboarding only area and once you see it you'll know why. The waves can get pretty large even on a small south east day, but this is a good introduction to shore break. However, on a large day, if you haven't played in shore break before I don't suggest going in the water. When the waves build up on the shore they take all the water that was there and suck it back into the ocean taking pebbles, rocks, and people with them.

Both bodyboarding and bodysurfing is tons of fun here. If you haven't bodysurfed before here's how. Just wonder into the water and when a wave comes start kicking and paddling as fast as you can, let the wave grab you, point an arm down the wave and prepared to be rolled. Take notice of those around you and just mimick whats going on. Bodyboarding is another option, similar to bodysurfing, only this time lunge the board out in front and feel your body glide down the wave. You'll be able to tell the good people, usually young kids not gender specific, because they can kneel and stand on their boards. Looks like fun, but tough.

If neither of these seem apealing just being pushed and pulled in all directions by the waves is also a good time. When the wave comes remember to dive down below it and let it roll over your head. If you open your eyes under water its quite a sight to see. Or just hang on the beach watch the waves do their dirty work. (The sights on the beach aren't too bad either, I suggest wearing sun-glasses and letting your eyes wander)

Next down the beach is Half-Point. This break ends on reef you can see from shore pointing out of the water. A fast break mostly for shortboarders. Be prepared to pop up fast and get on your board. If you don't the wave, or someone else will pass you by.

Last is Full-Point. Directly out from the lifeguard tower this break is a nice left that shortboarders, longboarders, and bodyboarders have fun with. Paddling out take notice of the reef you pass over, you may have to manuever around it when your riding the wave in. On a medium day the wave is fun and I have managed a few nice longboard waves. Once the swell gets over about 4 feet though I stick to a bodyboard. I have wanted to try a shortboard here because the crowds are low but haven't made it over as of yet. Be kind to the locals as usual. Most of the time we are out here there is a larger man, really good longboarder, who doesn't like to be cut-off. A co-worker of mine learned this the hardway.

The east shore, or windward side of Oahu has scattered number of surf breaks, most of which we have not been on. Being the windward side many of the breaks a normaly blown out and choppy but the good news is that means less people. Upon writing this page we have decided that it will be a good excuse to try those things that we probably never would have, one of which is surfing the east side of the island.

Makapu'u

Shorebreak Shorebreak Shorebreak. The first beach you come to from the south as you round the point towards the east side of Oahu, it opens up into a big ampetheatre where waves come crashing into the shore. The conditions here are perfect for bodyboarding, which again means its a no surfing spot. On a good east swell waves will break nicely 4 or 5 times before creating double over-head shore break. When the warning signs are posted please take note. I have had some sketchy encounters on this break both bodysurfing and bodyboarding.

Although you will find a group of people tucked close to the rocks taking rights ever closer, I won't venture to this side unless it is breaking considerably far off shore. I tend to stay in the middle and do just fine. The waves are usually scattered with people of all ages. Don't be timid, just go for a wave, get rolled, and repeat.

If this isn't for you but are draged along with someone who enjoys the punishment of shorebreak have no fear. The beach is pretty big and not too crowded. Make sure you go earlier in the day if this is your plan because the sun drops behind the cliffs which line the road and beach. I also recommend stopping on the side of the road if you have no time to enjoy the water. It's a popular spot for those cruising the island both local and tourist.

Mini Makapu'u

Located straight out in front of the parking lot between the shore and the smaller island. My only experience with this break wasn't too pretty. I went on a very rough, overcast day. I dropped Kim off to bike the east side shore and decided it would be a good idea to hop in the water (Kim wasn't too psyched at the idea but gave in due to my persistance and charm I'm sure). I threw on my neoprene rash guard, grabbed my board and wandered off the rocky cliff-like shore (first warning) into the rough waters.

It took me about 20 minutes just to get past the first breaks crashing on the shore (send warning). Once out I had waves wrapping all around me not giving any indication as to their breaking or not. I tried to go for several having the wave pass under me and then turning to around only to find a wave crashing on top of me. The third and final warning was when I got knocked off my board and got pulled closer in to shore noticing I was already 100 yards down from where I started.

At this point I decided to pick a small cove in the rocky shore and paddle like mad to get there. Finally out of the water I decided never to go there unless I saw people in the water before me.

Cockroach Bay

Just past Makapu'u, you'll be able to notice it because no matter the day or time there will be several tents stationed here with groups of people cooking and playing. On a good east swell this little bay gets some nice small rolling waves perfect for learning to surf with your longboard. Kim and I have been here a couple of times and usually there are only a few people out having a good time.

The break is over shallow moss covered rocks, and the wave will break 2 or 3 times. A nice relaxing spot, go if you want to get away from the crowds, or to just lay on your board. There isn't much of a beach, but good enough to take a break on. Make friends with the locals and they might invite you for diner. We haven't yet but that sounds like such a good idea.

Flat Island

When sitting on Kailua beach looking out at the water, there is a flat island, probably filled with birds and their droppings, probably also filled with kayakers who just paddeled out. Although I have never surfed this spot on a surfboard I have surfed a kayak here and that alone made me pass on the idea of a surfboard.

The break is one of the more sketchy breaks I've been at. The waves wrap around the island, bring away and then back in towards it. The other not so nice part of it is that it breaks over very sharp coral. I found that out by dumping my kayak and slicing my hand. Although locals (some of our friends included) say its a good break to surf, I have a different opinion. I think saying this makes them feel good about living further away from good breaks.

The North Shore of Oahu. Home to some of the world's most famous surfing breaks. The Banzai Pipeline, Waimea Bay, Sunset Beach, and Haleiewa. The ASP World Tour holds its final three events here, The Triple Crown of Surfing. All the major sponsors have houses on the beach to host their pro surfers. Waves routinely climb to over 20 foot faces. Everyone who claims to be anyone in the upper escelion of surfing must conquer the breaks of the North Shore of Oahu.

Haleiewa

I'll start with on of the few breaks that we have surfed on the North Shore. Puena Point. Located to the far right of the bay, you can get there by taking the access road off the main road into Haleiewa coming from the North. Just look for the painted shack and turn. Park in the parking lot and don't leave any valuables.

We like this break because it has something for everyone. On a good day for the North Shore, meaning 6+ Hawaiian Scale, Puena Point has about 5-7 good rideable breaks in succession, meaning the wave breaks that many times. This means that for those wanting the big waves just paddle out as far as you can and enjoy. For those wanting smaller longboard type breaks just stay in towards shore and you'll be happy.

This is where a lot of lessons are given by many of the North Shore surf schools. This is also the place where Haleiewa Surf n' Sea will allow you to use their rental boards on such a day. We suggest renting here, because you can practically walk with you baord to the break. If you don't rent here you must stop in. There is something for everyone here, plus it's a great local surf shop.

Also in Haleiewa is of course is Haleiewa beach park and all its breaks. This season I play to go surfing here. I was reluctant last year beacause I was just learning and I didn't want to upset the locals. They can be a pretty territorial bunch on the North Shore.

Haleiewa is also on of the stops on the Triple Crown of Surfing. This year it is the Ocean Pacific Pro Hawaii. Last year Kim and I went and it being our first ever surfing event as spectators loved it. Your so close to the surfers as they come in and out of the water and the over all feel is like that of a big extended family. I can't forget to mention that you're on a bueatiful beach where everyone is wearing bathing suits and generally in a pretty good mood. All these variables lead to a great time and lots of fun.

Further up the beach towards Kaena Point are more breaks that are pretty local. I haven't been to these either but I hear their pretty nice for a beginner North Shore break. Not too fast or too steep but good enough to begin the graduation process from Waikiki to the Country. (The Country is what the North Shore is called on the island of Oahu. Once you've been to Honolulu you'll see the difference. And hopefully it will be kept this way. It's a nice get away from the hussle of the city.)

When you are done with surfing for the day head into Haleiewa town and stop at one of the local restaurants. Cholos Mexican Grill is a favorite of ours, we tend to stop in for some good food and great Margaritas. Also in town are several shave ice shops that we have passed on due to their lines being a bit long for our liking. If your here just visiting I would stop and brave the wait, I hear their great. Also stop in the many shops, from surf shops to art galleries Haleiewa is a must for a relaxing end to the day.

Waimea Bay

Next on our list is Waimea Bay. If you travel here on most days out of the year, even during northern winter swells, you wouldn't guess this place has some of the biggest rideable surf on the isalnd. If conditions are just right waves begin to build off the point at the right of the bay and once they build high enough crash upon those people brave enough to paddle out.

Although there are places on the island where the waves get bigger, such as the outer reef breaks where surfers are towed in, Waimea Bay is the only place where people brave it and paddle into the waves. One of the greatest spectacles of these brave surfers is the Quick Silver In Memory of Eddie Aikau Big Wave Invitational. The contest has a waiting period of 3 months in which time the surf must be not only good rideable conditions but also over 25 feet Hawaiian scale (40+ foot faces). In its existence since 1982 there have only been 7 years in which the surf has meet these conditions. Most recently in 2004 where a local Kauai boy won claiming the $50,000 first prize for his 3 great rides.

I am lucky enough to work for a company that allows me to leave for the day to battle the crowds and watch such an event. There were 10's of thousands of people lining the bay which is otherwise only scattered with sunbathers and those braving the shorebreak if there is any.

Which brings me to Waimea's shorebreak. This is by far the biggest shorebreak I have seen and I don't suggest it for anyone who hasn't been body boarding for there lifetime. I ventured in one day thinking, "I've dealt with Sandy's and Makapu'u, how bad could it be?" Well as I mentioned that when the wave builds at the shore it sucks what was in it's place out and then crashes on it. No more so than here at the bay is that true. I was playing in the shorebreak, ducking under waves when all the sudden a bigger set came through and sucked me out and crashed me back in. I went through two wash cycles like this until I crawled to the beach probably to the amusement of those watching.

Banzai Pipeline - Ehuki Beach

Probably the worlds most famous break, the Banzai Pipeline is also one of the most dangerous. In the summer Ehuki beach is wide with sand for miles. In the winter, as the northern swells dump the sand further and further up on the beach the waves begin to crash over reef just feet from the surface. This particular formation of reef creates a perfect barrel of water that reaches heights over 25 feet high. You might be able to notice the small out of place white wash in the middle of the barrel in the picture to the right.

Once a year the best surfers from around the world come to compete in the Pipe Masters Surf Competition. Of late the title master of the pipe has gone to Kelly Slater. This past year Kim and I were lucky enough to go up to the country to watch the finals of the Pipe Masters. We were inches from Kelly Slater, Bruce Irons, and Champion Jamie O'Brien. This turly is one of the great places to watch a sporting event. The break is about 100 yards off shore and shouldn't be missed you're there during the holding period.

If you want to try and tackle the large wave I suggest you first consult with someone who has been on the wave before. Currently the group claiming to run Pipes is the Wolf Pack. They're a group of local boys that just want to make sure Pipeline doesn't turn into another overcrowded break where people cut-off each other off just to get a wave. I agree with this concept although I have heard it is inforced a bit rigidly due the territorial nature of some of the locals. This wave is dangerous enough that it doesn't need crazies bombing in while someone has a good line down the barrel.

There are breaks all up and down the beach so if you don't plan on surfing the Pipe try your luck with one of these. A lot of them are a bit tamer and look pretty fun. A bodyboard could be another good way of trying this area out. If you really don't look like you should be going in the water on a particular day the lifeguards will probably ask you if it is a good idea. They don't want to save you, as much as you don't want to be saved.

Sunset Beach

The last of the breaks up the shore that we've stopped at is Sunset Beach. It is also another stop on the Triple Crown of Surfing, the O'Neill World Cup of Surfing. The breaks here look pretty good, long and rolling on a medium north shore day, great for longboarding. I may try this spot out this winter as well.

The only real story of sunset we have is when Kim's father took a Wal-Mart special bike and road from Waimanalo to Sunset (a long way on some sketchy roads). He got schooled in the art of surfing competition from a knowledgable onlooker during last years World Cup of Surfing. He learned the ins and outs and was ready to start practicing as soon as he road the bus back to waikiki.

Another big beach on Oahu, Sunset has a bit for all to do. Bring a board, or bring a good book.

Makaha

Local Local Local. Kim and I have been to Makaha to Kayak but not to surf. We've loved our adventures on the west side of the island. It is bueatiful. Although we feel out of place over there, we wish we could go more. The waves at Makaha have looked great and very tempting so there is a chance we will go. However, I don't think we would go without someone who's a regular.

We'll keep you posted...