Secret Eastside Surf Breaks
Wednesday, June 3rd, 2009I am fortunate to live on the beautiful Windward side of the island, but for the past few weeks not so fortunate because of the variable winds conditions resulting in stifling weather conditions. I had been praying for the trades to come back and about to dump a glass of cold water on my head when it dawned on me, variable winds = good surf on the East-side!
Now when I mean “East-side” I am referring to the East-side of the island of Oahu such as Kailua, Kaneohe, Ka’a'awa, Punalu’u, Hau’ula, Laie, and Kahuku. I have been living on this side of the island in Kahalu’u for the past 7 years and I have been honored to surf some of these secret local breaks. I exclude Sandy Beach and Makapu’u simply for the fact that there is currently a surf report done on these surf locations and they may be considered “East-side” breaks but there are no secrets here. As for the rest of the areas for those who know where to go and when to go, these places can produce some of the best surf on the island with NO CROWDS!
To catch great surf on the East-side many factors must be just right.
#1. The right winds.
#2. Large swells generating from either the north or the south.
#3. The right tide.
#4. No hungry sharks around.
If one of these factors are just a little off the surf won’t be right and most times un-surfable. I have driven out to a particular break many times and have not paddled out because the conditions were wrong.
There are also other factors to consider when thinking about surfing the East-side. Firstly, most of the surf breaks cannot be seen by the untrained surfer eye. The surf breaks are either so far out that most people don’t even notice surfers or to get to the break you have to go through parks or even people’s houses. Next once you’ve found the break, there are no surf reports for any of the breaks from Kailua to Kahuku, so you must physically be standing in front of the break to know how it is. Once you decide you should paddle out most of the East-side breaks have no formal parking area, so you must park your car at your own risk, which is usually on the side of the road or in a neighborhood. Another thing to remember is that the locals who surf these spots don’t like foreigners (anyone else that didn’t grow up surfing there) so be prepared not to be welcomed and even hated on.
Lastly and most importantly, if you are lucky to spot a break with ideal conditions, find a parking, and decide to go out, understand that whatever wave size you think it is the actual height when you paddle out is usually twice that size and double the strength. East-side breaks tend to be very deceiving and usually not in the new-comers favor. East-side breaks tend to barrel on the reef and waves come with lots of speed and power behind it. Trust me, over the years I have learned all these things out the hard way.
As I took the 20 minute paddle out to an undisclosed surf break this weekend I got into “serious surfer mode.” After the stare down by the locals and without any smiling I took a spot off the peak out of the way. Surfing with “east-siders” is one like no other. There is a very different vibe with a focus on catching as many waves as possible and not getting killed on the reef. These guys are about ripping it up, safety, and camaraderie, not about showing off, dropping in on someone, and bragging about it. It was an amazing day with head high waves and some of the best glass-est surf I had seen in months and months. Even I got a few choice waves and I even saw one smile come my way from a local.
I would like to warn tourists and new surfers of East-side breaks. These spots aren’t for the light hearted and in my opinion because of all the sketchy variables the East-side can be a tougher place than North Shore. I respect the locals in cherishing these untouched spots and will never publish the actual locations or names of the breaks that I have been to for fear of ruining their spots. If you surf the East-side consider yourself lucky, always respect the locals and the beaches, and don’t forget to watch your back for sharks.
