We call it “Hangover Sunday” and, hungover or not, my friends and I have established a water sport tradition: we wake up as early as possible on Sunday morning, drive to Makapu’u Beach, and drink a beer (or two) before jumping in the romping surf for at least a full hour of bodysurfing enjoyment.  Indeed, Makapu’u Beach is world-famous for its perfectly bodysurfable waves, but to my friend and me it means so much more.
Ask anyone in Hawaii where to go if you want to surf without a board and, unless they want you to break your neck or get scratched up on the coral reef at Oahu’s other two bodysurfing spots, Sandy’s and Point Panic, Makapu’u will top the list.

There’s a little bit of skill and, in bigger surf, equipment that must be used to avoid injury when bodysurfing. At Makapu’u, you should begin bodysurfing at the eastern edge (the more protected side) of the beach.  Start shallow enough that you can still push off the sandy bottom.  To avoid crashing into the rocks, you will want to catch the wave to your left, so get a good push off the sea floor and direct your body to the left as you stick out your left arm to direct you.  Keep kicking even after you’ve caught the wave.  On big days, rubber fins are necessities for bodysurfing.  Locals do not wear swimming goggles–ever–to bodysurf.  It’s actually considered uncool.

Surfboards are strictly prohibited during lifeguarding hours (8 am - 5 pm every day), so body and boogie boarders have the beach all to themselves for most of the day!

Get out there and have fun!

To get to Makapu’u Beach, head east on H-1 and the Kalanianaole Highway.  The beach on your right, across the street from Sea Life Park.  There is free parking all day, as well as free public bathrooms and fresh water showers.

If you’re coming to Honolulu to surf, it’s best to be prepared for the “local” vibe that you are sure to encounter. If you’re a “haole” (white) guy, you should be careful even on the south shore to not cop an attitude in the water (girls, fortunately you don’t received nearly as much). The thing about surfing in Honolulu is that many residents (or “moks,” as we call them) believe the water is their territory and tourists don’t really belong there.

The key here is to be respectful of the locals when you’re in the water. Always follow the “right of way” rule and never cut someone off. Wait your turn. Regardless, here is a list of five spots that you should be aware of where you are likely to encounter a more “local” attitude.

1. Ala Moana Bowls

Because this is the premiere south shore surf spot, this place sees the most agressive surfers in town. Shortboarders can get particularly irritated with longboarders. A big no-no here is to drop in on someone — especially a dark-skinned local boy, so wait your turn and smile while you’re waiting.

2. Canoe’s

Since this spot is smack dab in the middle of Waikiki Beach (and in front of the Duke statue), it is always crowded here. There are still long-time longboarders who love to ride this gentle wave, so let them have their fun and you can have your own.

3. Kewalo’s

This place now sees a growing female crowd, which is helping the atmosphere in the water. Still, be on the lookout for a few dedidated surfers who claim this spot as theirs.

4. Lighthouse

Just west of friendly Cliffs by Diamond Head, Lighthouse is notorious for having aggressive shortboarders. This is not a spot for beginners anyways, so you are better off just surfing at friendly (but crowded) Cliffs.

5. Kaiser Bowls

Two breaks over from Ala Moana Bowls, Kaisers has always been a heavily “local” crowd. Some boys surf in groups to get each other on a wave of choice. You are not likely to catch the set wave here, so you might be better off at friendlier but sometimes more dangerous (at low tide) Rockpiles.

BIG SURF in the forecast for the next few days.

The Eddie Aikau Big Wave Memorial hasn’t gone in the last two years. Last year there was big surf, but it was usually coming in choppy and junk for any rideable waves.

This year the surf has started out huge on the North Shore of Oahu with 20 foot faces on multiple occasions already.

The Big Wave Challenge needs at least 20 foot Hawaiian scale waves to be called a go for the day and although the waves are predicted to reach 20 foot faces they may be a little too small (sounds crazy), for the Eddie to go.

The day brings the best big wave surfers from around the world, by invitation only, to the North Shore of Oahu to surf at Waimea Bay. It’s strictly paddle-in waves, no tow in allowed and is some of the biggest paddle-in riding around. I was able to go 3 years ago and it was amazing.

Hopefully mother nature will cooperate this year and we’ll see some big surf pounding the north shore all season long, and one day will be big enough for the Eddie to Go!

I really should cruise down to Tongg’s and get a photo of this but thought it best to report the news first. We just read from the HonoluluAdvertiser.com that the DLNR is warning surfers to stay clear of part of the Tongg’s surf break due to debris from a boat the ran aground this week.

Part of the boat is still submerged I guess and there’s debris that could injur surfers. The debris is marked about 100 yards off shore by two orange buoy’s.

If we can, we’ll get a picture up by the end of the day.

As predicted earlier in the week a little bump in the surf is going to be hitting the North and East facing shores of Oahu today. The surf is expected to be 3-5 foot faces with a chance for some bigger sets.

Obviously this is nothing to get too excited about but it’s a sign of the changing seasons, one that a lot of water enthusiasts will gladly welcome after a small year on the south shore. Speaking of the south shore, there is also the chance of a small bump on the south shore this Friday continuing through the weekend.

For those of you wanting a little more fun in the water the week long outlook appears bleak for surf on the Island of Oahu.

The south shore looks like it will continue to be small surf for the remainder of the week. (That should be nothing new for those of you who endured a summer without waves.)

The west side of the island also looks like it will be small kine waves throughout the week.

The north and east sides of the island may be your only chance to get some action in the water. A late bump Thursday brings the possibility of 2-3+ waves (Hawaiian scale) on the north shore continuing Friday and the east side of the island of Oahu is staying steady at 1-3+ all week long.

Have you ever wondered how some people just know where the surf is going to be hitting? Are they constantly checking Surf News Network? Do they know how to read they buoys? Do they have a buddy at every break with a cell phone in hand? Or are they just lucky?

Well maybe it’s that they know how to read everything: buoys, wind, currents, tides, and knowledge of the different breaks. If you’ve ever wanted some insight into what goes on with people that always know where the top surf is going to be depending on the conditions then you may want to check out the surf discussion happening on Sept. 20th.

As part of third Thursday down in China Town, similar to first Fridays, will be having guest speaker Pat Caldwell talking at the Chinatown Boardroom’s Surf Discussion series. He will speak from 6:30 to 7:30 p.m. at the gallery-cum-surf shop. You can go for free and find out all the information you need to know where to go. It’s your choice if you share that information with your buddies.

Can’t make it to the North Shore of Oahu for the Vans Triple Crown of Surfing? Then head on over to triplecrownofsurfing.com and you can watch the live webcast of the rounds.

I’m currently watching round 2 of the OP Pro in Haleiwa.

Head over and keep yourself busy.

technorati tags:Surf, Surfing, Hawaii, Oahu

Both the south and north shores of Oahu have 3 plus foot waves (that’s Hawaiian scale measured from the back of the wave meaning that the wave faces are at least 5 feet). Canoes was packed with people late into the evening with a bright moon and good surf. Some top spots we would suggest would be, of course Canoes, Pops, and Kewalos.

The Trades have picked back up a little bit and are causing a some chop on the sets but wait out the first wave or so and you’ll get clean surf following it up. Get out and get wet.

When traveling to Oahu don’t worry about trying to find a place for surfing. You have to look no further than Waikiki Beach. There are several stands right on the water that will gladly rent you a board, give you some pointers, and send you on your way.

There’s really no need for lessons, just look at what those around you are doing. If you do require them, they are cheap and fun. The Beach Boys on Waikiki Beach will help you surf until the sun goes down. They’ll even throw in a picture of you so you can brag to your friends back at the office. (Printed right on the beach!)

No need to ask around, just head to the Duke statue with your suit on and a few dollars. Prices range from $8 to $12 for a couple of hours. And a couple of hours is all you’ll need. The sport gets tiring even though your playing in the sun.