Life After Forty – Big Island Touring
Wednesday, June 17th, 2009Living in Hawaii is by default, an invitation for friends and family to visit. As residents we are expected to be entertaining and knowledgeable tour guides. My guest left today and though I tried hard to be a good tour guide I am not sure Hawaii lived up to his expectations.
He, like many of us, grew up in the Brady Bunch era. The Brady Bunch Hawaii episodes showed a lush tropical jungle full of hula dancers and innumerable palm trees. I live in Waikoloa Village, on the Big Island, which is basically a town surrounded by an enormous field of dried red lava. There are palm trees of course, however if you were dropped here blindfolded you would think you were in Anytown, USA. Our town was developed to house the employees of the surrounding resorts. The jungle is on the other side of the island.
Anyway, we started our touring with a drive around the Hamakua Coast. This is one of the most beautiful drives on the Big Island. Going through the rain forest is a true Hawaiian delight. The ocean is wild and gorgeous on one side and the jungle lush and tropical on the other. We happened to go when it was cloudy and rainy the whole way and my visitor fell asleep.
We did not stop at Akaka Falls because of the rain but went directly into Hilo. We were headed to a King Kamehameha Festival on the waterfront and arrived toward the end of the festival. I was hoping for some local artists and authentic Hula. There was a small Hula presentation but with only two women and two men. The male Kumu translated in a deep sonorous voice explaining the Hawaiian culture through dance. That part was great. The rest of the festival was disappointing as it consisted of a couple of tee shirt vendors and a food vendor.
Leaving the festival in the drizzling rain we stopped for a beer at Cronies on the bay front. My Hilo friends joined us and things livened up a bit. After a few beers we headed to a little local sushi restaurant called Ocean Sushi, which is low on atmosphere but great on quality and prices. We started with a bowl of Edamame and ordered lots of different sushi rolls to share for dinner. Everything was yummy except the rolls with a mayonnaise dressing (my mainland guest did in fact like that one – go figure?)

We were staying overnight at my friend’s “hut” out in Kea’au. He built and lived in it for a year while converting a Matson shipping container into a jungle bungalow. All four sides are screened so you are still outside but it is completely mosquito proof, making it extremely pleasant to sleep in. The sound of light rain is soothing as it falls on the plastic roof. There is also an outdoor shower rigged up with a propane torch heater and other rustic amenities, which make for an authentic jungle experience. We fell asleep to the lulling songs of the Coqui frogs.
Next morning after a breakfast of papaya, wild chicken eggs and sausage made from wild boars that a neighbor slaughtered, we headed to the warm pools at Ahalanui Beach Park. I took the long way through Kalapana to see the old lava flow that wiped out neighborhoods in the 1980s and to see the steam from the new lava flowing into the ocean right now. I was impressed as I watched the steam pouring up to form brilliant white mushroom clouds. I wished we could have stayed until dark so we could see the red glow of the lava flow.
However we needed to get back to Waikoloa for a barbeque so we set out again up the Hamakua coast. This time we did stop at Akaka falls and it is impossible not to be impressed by the Jurassic Park scenery and the gorgeous waterfalls.
We finished off his visit with a morning of Hawaiian Outrigger canoeing and Stand Up paddling in Anaeho’omalu Bay. The water was so clear and calm we stayed too long and had to rush to the airport.
I really tried to be a funny and enlightened tour guide. I can usually tell if I have succeeded but honestly this time I think the reality did not match up to the fantasy. I guess I should either tone down my enthusiastic description of life in Hawaii or stop having mainland guests. At least I got to do some touring myself.
Copyright © Johanna Kim








